| I believe I have missed the turn off. I wouldn't want to miss this
dinner for anything. Winding down the hills of Karon, where the roads go up and
down hill like a roller coaster. It is not an easy task, driving and having to
read signboards at the same time. Finally to my left, I can see it, lights shining
in the dark and a signboard announcing "Le Meridien Phuket Beach Resort'. Walking
through the reception area, a feeling of infinity overcomes me. The space is vast
and I could be anywhere in the world, if not for the tiny details of orchids and
salas everywhere to remind me that I am in Thailand. Today is a special day for
us. We have been invited to dine at Portofino, the Italian restaurant of le
Meridien Phuket. Tucked between the hotel's Japanese and seafood restaurants,
Portofino's interior decor reminded me of popular restaurants in Italy. The colours
here are subtle, the furniture looks old and comfortable, the smells are inviting.
We decide to sit outside where a huge swimming pool that extends down to the sandy
beach meets the restaurant's outdoor sitting area. To my right, under a great
Sala is yet another restaurant and in front of me a glass of chilled white wine.
Between my partner and I sits the Hotel's Public Relations Coordinator, Khun Kai,
a charming and effervescent young lady, who has been working in this hotel for
nine years. I could not have imagined better company for the evening.
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| The Chef comes and greets us with a "Buona Sera',
good evening in Italian, and I can't help but notice how young he looks. It could
be the hat, I think, and although I have been perusing the menu for some time,
I surrender and ask him to recommend something to eat. "Do you like fish?' he
asks, and we nod. "How about macaroni?' We nod again. He recommends the Lobster
salad with cocktail sauce and avocado tartare for our appetizer, the homemade
macaroni with Sicilian sauce, eggplant and mozzarella for a main course and asks
if that is alright. I tell him that my partner is not so fond of eggplant, whereupon
he unperturbedly suggests fettuccine with porcini mushroom and veal. We all nod
with enthusiasm and he excuses himself back to his creative den. Outside,
while waiting for the appetizer, we receive a small surprise. A plate arrives
with two slices of bread covered by a red-pinkish coloured dip, courtesy of the
chef. I will never find out what that was, and it did not last on my plate for
long. Savouring the flavours, I realized that this was going to be a memorable
experience. Chatting away with Khun Kai, we touch on a variety of subjects, from
the Chef's age to personal experiences. We learn that it was not the hat that
gave him a youthful appearance but the fact that Chef Alessio is only 23 years
old and that he was previously working in Dubai for the prestigious Hilton Hotel. The
waiters arrive with three huge plates, that contain our appetizers. The spread
was a feast of colours, the red of the finely chopped tomato, covering the pink
and white of the lobster, the avocado donating a tinge of green. The combination
of these simple ingredients with the more sophisticated lobster create a harmonious
taste, so fine that it is hard to resist. The cocktail sauce dotted around the
plate adds a unique flavour to the dish. But I have to restrain myself. I figure
"if this appetizer tastes so good, then the dessert will probably be exquisite,
and owning the sweet tooth that I do, I cannot afford to miss out on the treat,
considering also that I still have to eat the main course.'
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| The main course of pasta is served after a short
interval long enough to allow the lobster to settle and our taste buds to move
on to a different taste level. The macaroni is indeed home made, the sauce rich
and delicious and the generous grating of parmesan cheese smells divine. Although
I am engrossed into my own plate -the wine has made its way to my head already
and I become equally interested in my partner's dish. The veal is perfect, releasing
its flavour of herbs onto my palette. The mushrooms are crisp and the entire dish
is simply delicious. Another round to go and this is what I have been waiting
for all evening. Chef Alessio declares that he will surprise us with desert and
I try not to bite my nails in anticipation. Instead, I allow myself to enjoy the
show at the restaurant next door. It's Latino night and the troupe of dancers
is really sweating it out on the floor. Khun Kai suggests having a cappuccino,
and we agree. Seemingly out of nowhere a waiter appears and takes our order and
I am once more impressed with the service. A while later another waiter
arrives with a tray balancing three glazed ceramic bowls. It seems something hot
is captured within, for he tests the bowls before touching them. A dark crust
on top conceals the egg yellow dessert below and as I put the first spoon into
my mouth I detect the presence of alcohol. Chef Alessio explains that there is
porto vino in the Sabayon that we are eating. Not in the least concerned about
who is going to drive back home tonight, I dip into the dessert. I combine some
of the crust with its spongy under layer and the sweet liquid sauce, letting it
roll in my mouth before swallowing. Simply scrumptious.
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"The dessert is simple to make", says Chef Alessio shyly, but that
was what he said about all the other dishes that we devoured tonight. I guess,
that for a person like him, who started his cooking career when he was 16, everything
is simple. I ask him what other dishes he would recommend and he replies with
a smile that he prefers to ask his customers first what they prefer to eat, whether
it be fish or meat before recommending anything. A wise answer indeed. Dining
at Portofino is definitely a treat. It will provide a chance to appreciate how
simple ingredients and cooking techniques, often scorned by some who prefer intricate
cooking, result in a fine, sophisticated rich taste that is light and at the same
time tantalizing to even the most choosy palettes. More information abour
le
Meridien Phuket
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