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The Natural Appreciation of Doi Toong
by Benjamin Malcolm
Felicity Gate, the main entrance into the summer palace of Doi
Toong Royal Villa, was built with the following Lanna Kingdom prayer
in mind.
"May the gate to true happiness be rimmed with the rays of
the sun. May your soul soar high like the birds of heaven and the
celestial horse. May the eye of the owl be vigilant and keep the
forces of evil at bay."
The prayer's emphasis on the natural protective forces of
the world is not misplaced here at Chiang Rai's popular mountainside
tourist destination. Indeed, the grounds and the buildings themselves
seem to be imbued with an omnipresent sense of the natural spirit,
a living testament and memorial to the visions of King Bhumibol's
mother, Somdet Phrasrinakarintara Boromrachachonanee, affectionaltely
known as Somdet Yaa, who passed away in 1995.
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The Doi Toong Royal Villa was built in November 1988, from Somdet
Yaa's personal funds and incorporates a delightfully congruous mix
of Northern Thai and Swiss architectural themes. Dark teakwood is
topped by chalet-style roofs that are in turn topped by the Thai
"galae," the double-ended pointed roof decorations common
throughout the north. Somdet Yaa spent a number of years in Switzerland,
while her children completed their education. Upon returning to
Thailand, she brought back a unique appreciation for the lifestyles
and lodges of that mountainous country.
Wide-ranging views of the nearby forests, mountains and countryside
can be had from the porches and depending on the clearness of the
day, there is even a chance to see the nearby mountains of Myanmar.
At the peak of Doi Toong mountain, 1800 metres above sea level,
are the twin Lanna-style chedis of Wat Phra That Doi Toong, ostensibly
erected in 911 AD. Like Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai, Wat Phra That
Doi Toong is considered a holy pilgrimage site for many Thai, Chinese
and Shan Buddhists.
There are hill tribe villages, including Shan, Akha and Lahu, all
about Doi Toong and many are visible from the road to the Villa.
The summer palace reflects the Royal Family's active presence
in hill tribe affairs and their ongoing search for agricultural
alternatives other than opium cultivation.
The grounds of the Royal Villa include the building itself, a spacious
garden and gift shops with upscale clothing, books and other keepsakes.
Also present are a small canteen and an outdoor fresh coffee shop
overlooking the garden. The coffee brewed in this quaint cafe is
some of the freshest you can find in Thailand, as the beans are
cultivated around Doi Toong.
Somdet Yaa was not the only resident of the summer palace; the
Villa also contains the private living quarters of Princess Galayani
Wattana, the elder sister of the King, and her granddaughter, Thanpuying
Tassanawalai.
Visitors are encouraged to explore the outside of the building,
but all have to wait their turn for the official tour of the East
Wing, the Grand Reception Hall and the porches lining the Princess
mother's former quarters. This is a ceremonial affair much
like the tour of the Grand Palace in Bangkok.
A tour of the Villa reveals a true dedication to the aforementioned
natural world. Guides are keen to point out the environmentally-friendly
source of the panelling in the palace, namely recycled pinewood
shipping crates. Flowerboxes are in abundance, especially on the
porches, lending a multitude of colour to each and every railing.
Her Royal Highness was an avid gardener during her life.
The legend of Doi Toong, or "Mountain of the Holy Banner,"
captured in a large painting in the side hall of the Villa, tells
of the long ago visit of King Lawacahkalaj. Legend says that he
ascended from heaven on a silver ladder onto the mountain, in order
to protect and uphold the Buddhist religion. Thai numerals and consonants
are carved into the stairwell leading to the service areas.
The Grand Reception Hall marks the end of the official tour, after
which patrons are encouraged to wander the unrestricted areas and
especially the porches. Guests can view Somdet Yaa's private chamber
from outside. Evidence of her final embroidery piece is carefully
preserved on the desk, as well as other embroidery and cards made
from pressed flowers. During her lifetime, these cards were often
framed and donated to charity.
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The Grand Reception Hall is a tour in itself. Embroidered silk
wall panels, gifts from villagers in Chiang Mai, line one wall,
while two paintings of Doi Toong offer dawn and twilight views of
the mountain. A fervent interest in astrology is evident in the
wooden ceiling. Ornate carvings of all the signs of the zodiac are
imbedded, as well as a series of white lights, which represent the
solar system and the alignment of the planets at the exact moment
of Somdet Yaa birth on October 21, 1900.
Further evidence of astrology may be found on the porches. Dark
brown carvings of each zodiac symbol stand out from the light brown
wood, below the flower boxes and vistas of the accompanying terrain.
In all, there are four large terraces facing north to the ridge
that forms the border between Thailand and Myanmar.
Flora enthusiasts are encouraged to head just below to the expansive
landscaped walkways and ponds of Mae Fah Luang Garden. The climate
of Doi Toong is cool enough to allow for a variety of flowers and
plants from different ecosystems and all of these are spread about
a sizeable area, forming rich blankets of colour in between concrete
and wooden walkways. Within several walkthrough greenhouses, workers
tend to sprouts and seedlings, intended for sale in the Villa shops
or for planting in the garden itself. Terrace planters in the garden
are carved with elephants.
A good part of the day can be spent wandering the grounds of the
Doi Toong Royal Villa in the cool air of the slopes of Doi Toong.
Those who become tired may wish to retire to the balconies of the
coffee shop and indulge in a cappuccino or latte and enjoy the view.
Visitors to Doi Toong will leave with a renewed appreciation for
the work and history of the Thai Royal family, the beauty and abundance
of flowers and of course, the sights and sounds of the natural world,
echoed in the words of a prayer above Felicity Gate.
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