City Heat

Sofitel Silom
One of the most exciting things to happen in Bangkok recently is the opening of the Sofitel Silom Bangkok (0-2238-1991). Formerly the Monarch Lee Gardens, the hotel is being transformed into one of the city's most interesting and value for money hostelries. The building is not particularly exciting but the location is fairly central with easy transport communications by skytrain, taxi and tuk tuk. The managers are determined to make it into a 5-star establishment by creating some of the most exciting dining and drinking venues in Bangkok. With the Shanghai 38 Chinese Restaurant, they have begun in the right way. The art deco interior is reminiscent of Shanghai in the 1930's and makes other Chinese restaurants in Bangkok appear lacking in comparison. The other venues in the hotel are just as exciting, but we will have to leave describing them until a later date. In the meantime, checkout the Shanghai 38; it gives Bangkok a Chinese restaurant with more authenticity than the norm.

"The Messiah"
Continuing its tradition of featuring fine theater, the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel (0-2653-0333) will present a delightful and irreverent production of "The Messiah" on December 7 and 8. A fun show for the entire family directed by Julian Simpson and starring Ian Burns and David Bluestone. The two actors play all of the parts between them as they attempt to encompass the Roman census, the jostling Nazarene populace, the virgin birth and the immaculate conception with their own immaculate timing. In Britain, The Guardian described the show as "hilarious." There are several options for viewing the show, including some with dinner (December 7) or brunch (December 8). It is best to call the hotel for further information. Reservations are a must and they should be made early.

Southeast by Southwest
Famous American photographer Charles Freeland has an exhibition running at the Rotunda Gallery (0-2233-1731) at the Neilson Hays Library at 195 Surawongse Road until November 13. The photographs, which are in black and white, are taken in Southeast Asia and the Southwestern United States. Although the two areas are culturally and geographically different, there are common elements that hold the exhibit together. Freeland's work is incredibly beautiful and never fails to move both the spirit and mind. There is a timelessness about his work that never fails to impress. All proceeds from this exhibit will be donated to a charity for children with AIDS.

Bangkok Spas
Virtually every major hotel in Bangkok now has a spa, and if it doesn't, it probably has plans in the works to build one. Some of these spas attain levels of sumptuous elegance not found anywhere else in the world. Although all are attractive, we have found The Aspara at the Hotel Plaza Athenee (0-2650 8800) to be especially luxurious. Located on the fifth floor of the hotel, it features five treatment rooms with in-room showers, one Hydrotherapy room with a computerized hydrotherapy tub and a Vichy Shower facility and one suite room equipped with a Jacuzzi and a steam room. It is open daily from 10:00-22:30. Another especially attractive spa is the Mandara Spa at The Imperial Queen's Park Hotel (0-2261-9000). The excellent facilities include luxurious single and double self-contained massage and body treatment rooms and two grand suites with their own plunge pools and full amenities. It is open daily, and as with all of the city's spas, reservations are a must.

Nightclubs
It is difficult to conceive of a city with a wider variety of nightspots than Bangkok. A lot of noise is made about the city's seedier places, but there are really some topnotch nightspots available. The Boom Room in the basement of the Novotel Siam Square (0-2255-6888) has something different going on every night of the week. The same is true for The Ministry of Sound (0-2229-5850) at 2 Sukhumvit Soi 12, a place popular with expatriates. If you want to spend more money, try Narcissus (0-2258-2549) at 112 Sukhumvit Soi 23. It is designed for the wealthy and nattily attired featuring some of the best lighting and sound in the city. Perhaps the best all round place is the Saxophone Pub & Restaurant (0-2246-5472) at 3/8 Victory Monument Phyathai Road. The atmosphere is lively; the live music topnotch and audience a mix of hip Thais and foreigners.

Loy Krathong Celebrations
One of Thailand's most charming festivals is Loy Krathong. On November 19, Thais from all walks of life will congregate by bodies of water and place little boats made of natural ingredients (krathong) into the water. The krathong, with their flickering candles, smoking incense sticks and beautiful flowers, create a dramatic sight. There are many interpretations of the meaning of this festival and everyone seems to have their own. In Bangkok, Loy Krathong is best observed on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. If you are in the City on November 19th, go to the river and enjoy the sight. You can easily buy a krathong and launch it along with the locals. Since there are so many interpretations of what Loy Krathong is about, you can have your own secret belief about what the launching of your krathong means. This is an experience all visitors to Thailand should enjoy. All of the hotels along the Chao Phraya, big and small, will be having some form of celebration.

Thanksgiving Day Celebrations
Thursday, November 28th is Thanksgiving Day in the United States, a holiday that is traditionally celebrated with a feast that includes a roast turkey. Virtually all of Bangkok's major hotels will offer a meal on this day with the obligatory Turkey dinner. A good example is the JW Marriott (0-2656-7700) on Sukhumvit Soi 2. Its Marriott Cafée has arranged a buffet dinner for 790 baht++ that includes all of the Thanksgiving favourites, including turkey with herb dressing and all of the trimmings, plus a great selection of desserts. Another example is The Dining Room at the Grand Hyatt Erawan (0-2254-1234). Their 1100++ buffet will include "Roasted Turkey with traditional trimmings; Honey Glazed Ham, Roasted Beef and an array of desserts." All of the hotels strongly recommend booking early to avoid disappointment, as many people seem to enjoy a turkey meal.

British Pubs
We previously featured Bangkok's Irish Pubs. There are also several British Pubs in town with legions of loyal followers. Bobby's Arms 0-2233 6828 on the 1st floor of the multi-story parking lot at Patpong 2 (you actually have to enter the carpark to get to the place) has been around for an amazing 27 years and has some patrons who seem to have been sitting in the same stools the entire time. It has a wide selection of beers and some good pub grub. Out on Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 is The Bull's Head (0-2259 4444), a place that feels as if it was directly transplanted from England. The menu is authentic and there are lots of imported beers in addition to local brews on tap. On Sundays it is filled with expats talking about how things are back home. The Londoner Brew Pub (0-2261 0238) is a block away in the basement of the UBC Building on Sukhumvit Soi 33. It is a large place and brews its own beer; the menu features both Thai and British food.

Science for the Kids
Bangkok has some excellent science museums for the kids. The Childrens' Discovery Museum is filled with "hands-on" activities designed to help children understand the world in which they live. It is located in Chatuchak Park and has activities appropriate for children from as young as 6 months. Open from 09:00-18:00 on weekdays, and 10:00-19:00 on weekends; closed on Mondays. For older youngsters, the National Science Museum is a must. There are numerous hands-on activities and extensive exhibits on the four floors of this museum. It is not far from Dreamworld and can be found at Soi Klong 5, Rangsit, Nakon Nayok Road, Pathumthani, tel. 0-2577-4172. Open everyday except Mondays from 09:30-17:00. The Museum of Science and Planetarium on Sukhumvit Road between Sois 40 and 42 is a little old, but it still holds interest for the kids. Open from 09:00-16:00, Wednesday through Sunday.

Italian Cooking Lessons
Bangkok isn't the place where one normally thinks about taking Italian cooking lessons, but they are offered by Chef Marco at La Gritta (0-2255-7350) Italian restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 19 on the last Thursday of every month. Chef Marco is a master chef and loves to teach. For 600 baht++ you'll get a fun filled morning with a demonstration and lots of tips from the chef. This is followed by lunch and the presentation of a 2-for-1 voucher for the next time you come to the restaurant for its well-known luncheon buffet. Call and ask for Marco; he will happily tell you what he has in store for his next lesson.

Jazz
Jazz is the rage in Bangkok at the current time with every venue in town trying to outdo the other. One of the best groups around is The Bangkok Jazz Quartet who perform each night (except Monday) from 21:00-01:00 in the Sundowner Jazz Bar at the Imperial Queen's Park Hotel (0-2261-9000) on Sukhumvit Soi 24. A few blocks away at Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel (0-2653-0333) on Sukhumvit at Soi 14 The Living Room always has some of Bangkok's best jazz. Currently it is featuring the legendary Eldee Young Trio. For a chance to hear what talented local musicians can do go to the Brown Sugar Jazz Pub (0-2250-1826) on Soi Sarasin Road, opposite Lumpini Park. The music starts at 21:30 and continues until 02:00. The place is a little rundown, but it has been around for decades and the music is great.

Thai Boxing
Although it isn't everyone's cup of tea, many people enjoy going to a Thai boxing match while in Bangkok. The matches are filled with rituals, like a "dance" before the fight begins in which the fighters pay homage to their teachers. Music is played throughout the contest and the people in the audience energetically root for their favourite. Contestants can use their hands, feet, knees, and elbows during the fight. Bouts are scheduled for five rounds, each of three minutes duration. There are two principal stadiums in Bangkok: Lumpini Stadium on Rama IV Road and Rajdamnern Stadium on Rajdamnern Road. Between the two stadiums, there are boxing matches virtually every day of the week. Tickets purchased at the venues are very inexpensive, but many tourists prefer to buy a package deal for about 1600 baht that provides transportation, a ringside seat, a soft drink and the chance to take pictures with a boxer.