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City Heat
||Getting
from Point A to B | Sightseeing
in Bangkok
Shopping
in City of Angels | Bangkok
Activities | Day
Trips Outside of Bangkok
Getting from Point
A to B
 Skytrain
For destinations located along its route, the sparkling clean Skytrain
system has eliminated the misery of Bangkok's gridlock. Depending
upon the distance traveled, tickets range in price from 10 to 40
baht. Single journey tickets can be purchased in vending machines
that only accept 5 and 10 baht coins. There are no change machines
available so it is a good idea to insure that you have coins to
buy a ticket rather than having to wait in line to get change. There
are several multiple-journey tickets available that significantly
reduce costs. Tourists most frequently purchase the 100 baht or
280 baht unlimited travel tickets that are good for one or four
days (three nights). Visitors planning on staying a longer period
of time can purchase one of the regular commute tickets. All of
the stations have maps and signs in English explaining ticketing
options; the Nana, Siam Square, and Saphan Taksin stations have
tourist information centers.
Taxis
Metered cabs are now the norm in Bangkok and they usually present
no significant problems for tourists. The rates are very low by
international standards and although tipping is not customary, most
people round their fare up to the nearest five or ten baht. Cab
drivers rarely speak English, but most are fairly adept at deciphering
foreign pronunciations of popular destinations. For other destinations
- including your hotel - it is best to have the name of the destination
written out in Thai. Drivers will occasionally refuse to take people
to remote locations where they will have difficulty finding a return
fare. In some instances, particularly at the Southern Bus Terminal
or when it is raining, drivers will attempt to establish a set price
rather than use the meter. These practices, however, are increasingly
rare as the phone number of where to complain is now prominently
displayed in all cabs.
Tuk-Tuks
They are noisy, dangerous and belch smoke, but virtually every
visitor tries one of these three-wheeled contraptions at least once.
Here are some guidelines to help you in your inevitable bout with
insanity. Always negotiate your fare before climbing into the beast
and never agree to be taken on a one hour tour for 10 baht. The
latter is a scam to take you to shops giving the driver a kickback.
If you refuse to go to the shop, he will inevitably become nasty
and uncooperative. The fare you negotiate will probably be more
than it would cost to use a metered air-conditioned taxi. Tuk-tuk
drivers rarely understand any language other than Thai and many
of them can't read. If you are heading for an esoteric destination,
it is best to have a Thai speaker explain to the driver where you
want to go. Good luck!
Buses
Bangkok's buses come in all shapes and sizes, but they share
one trait in common: they are all crowded. Visitors usually take
the air-conditioned models (pale orange or blue and white) with
fares that vary according to the destination - rarely more than
12 baht. Buses without air-conditioning are hot, uncomfortable and
invariably filled with exhaust fumes from the street. These buses
have a fixed fare of 3.5 baht (red buses) or 5 baht (blue buses).
There are also 25 baht micro buses available that only stop when
they have seats available. The routes followed by microbuses are
one of Bangkok's great mysteries so they are rarely used by
tourists. Maps showing bus routes except those followed by microbuses
are available at newsstands throughout the city. Watch your belongings
on crowded buses; the conditions are ideal for petty thieves.
Motorbike
Taxis
On virtually every street corner in the city, you will see groups
of men lolling about in brightly colored vests advertising bars
and other places of business. The motorbikes gathered around them
are used to transport people by weaving through traffic jams. Although
expatriate business people often use motorbike taxis to save time,
they are not recommended for tourists. Fares have to be negotiated
and when they get onto the city's main thoroughfares, motorbike
taxis can be lethal - especially since only the driver is required
by law to wear a helmet!
Sightseeing
Bangkok
 Wat
Pra Kaeo and The Grand Palace
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Sharing 945,000 square meters of common ground, Wat Pra Kaeo and
the Grand Palace are Bangkok's most popular cultural attractions.
The wat, which was built in 1782 at the behest of King Rama I, consists
of several gilded structures and is noted for its extensive murals
showing scenes from the Ramakian, the Thai version of the Indian
epic Ramayana. Also known as The Temple of the Emerald Buddha, a
large bot (main chapel) at the wat houses the small (75cm tall),
but culturally significant statute. The origins of this much traveled
piece of statuary are a mystery, but it was returned to Thailand
from Laos in 1778 by General Chao Phraya Chakri, who later became
King Rama I. The Grand Palace is no longer used as a royal residence,
but serves a variety of other functions. The numerous buildings
are constructed in several architectural styles that reflect the
desires of the monarchs who created them. Chakri Maha Prasat, the
largest of the buildings, was designed by British architect John
Clunish in 1882, but is topped with Thai style spires. The room
below the largest spire contains the ashes of several Chakri monarchs
and their queens. When visiting the compound care must be taken
to dress appropriately. Shorts, sleeveless shirts and shoes without
toes and heels are not permitted. When entering the bot or other
sanctuaries of the Wat shoes must be removed. Open daily from 08:30-15:30,
the admission fee to the compound is 200 baht.
Wat
Pho
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The second largest Buddha image in Thailand is housed in this,
the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Although the wat was built
in the 16th century during the Ayutthaya period, it has been rebuilt
and modified several times. The 46 meter long Buddha image was created
in the 19th century during the reign of Rama III. Built around a
brick core and covered with plaster that is finished with gold leaf,
the eyes and feet are inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Wat Pho is also
the resting place for numerous gilded Buddha images that were brought
from temples destroyed during conflicts with the Burmese. The wat
has always concerned itself with traditional medicine, including
Thai massage. For 250 baht an hour or 150 baht a half-hour, visitors
can receive a massage. Those interested in learning the art can
enroll in five to 10-day courses. Wat Pho is open from 08:00-17:00
and costs 20 baht to visit.
Wat Traimit. The central attraction at this wat is a 5 ½
ton gold Buddha that never fails to amaze visitors with its gleaming
beauty and incredible value. Covered with plaster to protect it
from people more interested in gold than its religious significance,
the true character of the image was discovered only 45 years ago.
While workers struggled to move it, a chunk of plaster fell off,
revealing its solid gold interior. The statute is housed in a rather
non-descript temple near Chinatown and Hualamphong train station.
The wat is open daily from 09:00-17:00 and has a 10 baht admission
charge.
Wat
Arun
The "Temple of Dawn" is a Bangkok landmark. Dramatically
jutting into the air from its location on the Thonburi banks of
the Chao Phraya, the central Khmer-style prang has been elongated
to give it an appearance that is unmistakably Thai. Four smaller
prangs of similar design surround the main spire. All five of the
spires have been covered with broken pieces of porcelain that were
used as ballast by Chinese ships that formerly came to Thailand.
Steep steps lead halfway up one side of the main prang to a point
where there are dramatic views of the river and surrounding areas,
including Wat Pra Kaeo and The Grand Palace. The interior of the
temple's bot is also worth exploring. The murals picturing
Prince Siddhartha encountering examples of birth, old age, sickness
and death are particularly impressive. The wat is open daily from
07:30-17:30; admission is 10 baht. It can be reached from the Bangkok
side of the river by taking the ferry from Tha Tien Pier to the
Wat Arun Pier.
Bangkok
National Museum
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For those seeking an introduction to Thai art, culture and history,
this is the best place to start. Located near the Grand Palace,
the museum's buildings date from 1782 and are as much a part
of the display as the objects contained within them. Popular items
in the museum include an early Buddha image from Gandhara in India
with obvious signs of influence from classical Greek sculptures;
a display of traditional musical instruments from Thailand, Laos,
Cambodia and Indonesia; and the collection of royal funerary carriages,
including the massive and still used Vajayant Rajarot that requires
300 men to pull. On Wednesdays and Thursdays, beginning at 09:30,
free tours are provided in English by National Museum volunteers.
Free tours are also conducted in German, French and Japanese. Call
the volunteers at 02-215-8173 for more information about the tours
and the subjects covered. The museum is open from 09:00 to 16:00,
Wednesday through Sunday. The admission fee is 40 baht.
Jim
Thompson House
The legendary American who breathed life into the Thai silk industry
shortly after the end of World War II and then mysteriously disappeared
while on a walk in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia in 1967 formerly
lived in this traditional Thai house. A former New York City architect,
he was an inveterate collector of Asian art. Much of what he collected
is on display in his former home, a place where he entertained the
rich and famous when they came to Bangkok. The guides at the house
are charming and informative and everyone leaves the place feeling
they know much more about Thailand than when they arrived. There
is a small restaurant and gift shop on the premises where visitors
can buy excellent silk products. Located on a small soi near the
Mahboonkrong Shopping Center, the house is open Monday through Saturday
and has an admission fee of 100 baht.
Wang
Suan Phakkard
Formerly the residence of Princess Chumbot of Nakhon Sawan, this
collection of five traditional wooden Thai houses is a delight to
visit. The structures of the "Lettuce Farm Palace" are
filled with antiques, art, porcelain and furnishings. The grounds
are beautifully landscaped and the pond contains ducks and swans.
Although not a particularly popular destination with Thais, foreigners
always seem to enjoy the peaceful respite from hectic Bangkok and
the useful information they receive about Thai history and culture.
Located on Si Ayutthaya Road near the Siam City Hotel, it is open
every day except Sunday from 09:00-16:00. There is a 150 baht admission
fee.
Bangkok
Activities
 Visiting
the Weekend Market
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Everyone seems to love a bargain and there are plenty to be had
at Chatuchak Weekend Market, a happening that occurs in Bangkok
every Saturday and Sunday from 09:00 to 18:00. Items sold include
everything imaginable and much that is unimaginable, including clothing
(new and used), flowers, plants, massive goldfish, rare tropical
fish, handmade candles, modern paintings, ceramics and kitchen ware,
used magazines and books and virtually every kind of handicraft
produced in Thailand. To get the best prices, you have to bargain.
At one time the Weekend Market was difficult to reach, but it is
now easily accessed by getting off the Skytrain at the Mo Chit station
and walking the short distance to the market. It can get very hot
at Chatuchak so be sure to drink lots of water and to occasionally
stop for a rest. A useful map of the market's layout, produced
by Nancy Chandler, is now available at the market and in Bangkok
bookstores. It is indispensable for finding things in the maze produced
by Chatuchak's 15,000 stalls.
River
and Klong Tours
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Bangkok's numerous waterways provide a fascinating way to
get around and to view the city. The Chao Phraya River Express is
a river "bus" that goes up and down the river between
the Tha Wat Ratchasingkhon pier (just north of the Krungthep Bridge)
and Nonthaburi, a Bangkok suburb near the airport. The 1½
hour trip costs less than 20 baht and offers a fascinating view
of life along the river and of some of Bangkok's most famous
landmarks. The best way to familiarize yourself with the river buses
is to go to the Central Pier located at the foot Saphan Taksin Skytrain
Station. There is a large sign that explains where the different
types of boats stop. The trip is much more enjoyable if you avoid
traveling at commute time. If you are interested in seeing Thonburi's
numerous canals, you can rent a longtailed boat for about 300 baht
an hour, a price that is very reasonable when spread among several
people. Be sure, however, that you have established your price before
getting aboard the boat. The Boat Tour Centre, near the River City
Shopping Complex is recommended by many and charges competitive
prices. Tha Chang, the pier near the Grand Palace is another good
place to charter a boat.
Dinner
Cruises
The major hotels fronting on the Chao Phraya River all have some
sort of a dinner cruise. Boats, ranging from massive river cruise
boats to charmingly converted rice barges, provide meals while diners
view the sights along the river. The big boats feature buffets while
the smaller vessels often provide individual service. Several riverside
restaurants also have dinner cruises at much lower prices. Two of
the most popular cruises are operated in rice barge conversions
by Loy Nava (02-437-4932) and Manohra Cruises (02-476-0021). The
latter, which operates out of the Bangkok Marriott Resort &
Spa, is particularly appropriate for couples who want a romantic
evening.
Touring
Chinatown
Bangkok's Chinatown is located in the area around the intersection
of Yaowarat and Ratchawong Roads. It is a warren of shops selling
jewelry, hardware, food, fabrics, clothing, household goods and
a multitude of other things. Invariably packed with dense crowds
of people, it offers sights and experiences you won't find
anywhere else in Bangkok. Although much of what is sold isn't
what tourists want, if you find something that tickles your fancy,
be sure to bargain. The Chinese love bargaining and the initial
price of anything they sell is far higher than what they expect
to receive. Adjacent to Chinatown, centered on the intersection
of Pahurat and Chakkaphet Roads, is a small Indian settlement usually
referred to as "Pahurat." This is a good place to shop
for fabrics and clothes. If you are seeking authentic and reasonably
priced Chinese or Indian food both of these areas have some excellent
restaurants. The Lonely Planet Thailand guidebook has devised a
walking tour of Chinatown and Pahurat. The walk is definitely not
for those who have trouble handling crowds, but it offers a trip
into a world many don't even realize exists. If you take the
tour, don't forget your camera.
Traditional
Thai Massage
Although massages in Thailand are often associated with sexual
hanky panky, an authentic Thai massage is something many tourists
enjoy. It involves kneading the muscles, stretching and applying
deep pressure to specific nerves or pressure points. The system
has evolved over the centuries and a massage will differ very little
from one trained practitioner to another. Responsibility for maintaining
and propagating the art is the responsibility of Wat Pho, a place
where many people go for a reasonably priced and authentic massage.
Some of the best massages in Bangkok are given by blind masseuses.
In the last couple of years, massages of the feet have become popular
with tourists. It is amazing how relaxing a foot massage can be
after a day of walking and sightseeing.
Nightlife
Bangkok is a city that seems to inspire everyone to have a good
time. It has probably the most diverse collection of restaurants,
nightclubs, go-go bars, bars, pubs and other nightspots of any city
in the world. There is something for everyone, but remember to exercise
common sense to avoid an unwanted lightening of your wallet or losing
it altogether. Nightclubs come and go with rapidity, but a variety
of publications describing the city's nightlife will let you
know where the latest action can be found. Massive microbreweries
with their own beer, live entertainment and food (often German)
are currently the rage. For those who simply want a drink, there
are a variety of pubs and bars in the city where people gather to
drink and talk. Many of these spots are hangouts for various ethnic
groups who want to use their native tongue and talk about things
back home. For those interested in visiting one of the city's
famous (infamous?) go-go bars it is probably a good idea to give
Patpong a pass. It has been diminishing in popularity recently and
this has caused a corresponding rise in the aggressiveness of the
numerous touts in the area. Most people seem to have the best time
at the bars in Nana Plaza on Sukhumvit Soi 4 or at Soi Cowboy on
Sukhumvit Soi 23. Although obviously not designed for female customers,
women sometimes accompany their mates to see what all the talk is
about.
Day
Trips Outside of Bangkok
 Cruises
to Ayutthaya
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Several companies and hotels offer trips that combine bus and boat
travel into a tour that includes lunch; a stop at Bang Pa-in Palace,
a "summer" retreat for Thai monarchs; and a whirlwind
tour of the ancient Thai capital of Ayutthaya. Horizon Cruise (02-236-7777),
operating out of the Shangri-la Hotel, for example, has a trip available
for 1600 baht that takes guests to directly to Ayutthaya by bus
where they visit four monuments. They are then whisked by the same
bus to Bang Pa-in where they visit the palace. After this they board
a luxury cruise boat for lunch and a leisurely trip down the Chao
Phraya to Bangkok. The Oriental Hotel (02-236-04000) operates a
similar trip using its luxurious Oriental Queen. For those who want
to spend more time in Ayutthaya, rice barges converted into sumptuous
four and 10-cabin cruisers decorated with antiques and oriental
carpets offer overnight cruises to the ancient city. The Mekhala
and Manohra 2 operate out of the Maenam Hotel (02-256-7168) and
the Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa (02-476-0021) respectively.
Call for details about these luxury trips as itineraries change
with demand and the season.
Nakhon
Pathom
Although it is one of the oldest cities in Thailand and may have
been inhabited as early as 300 BC, Nakhon Pathom offers only one
visual connection with its past: Phra Pathorm Chedi, the tallest
Buddhist monument in the world. The 127 meter spire was given its
present form in 1860 by King Mongkut who restored and significantly
modified a structure that had lay in ruins since 1057. The initial
monument at the site was erected in the early 6th century by Theravada
Buddhists and is contained within the orange-glazed dome of the
present structure. In the early 11th century, the city was conquered
by Suriyavarman I, a Khmer king from Angkor who built a Brahman-style
prang over the existing structure. A short time later the city was
sacked by the Burmese and the prang lay in ruins until King Mongkut
recreated it when he built a chedi over the remains of the prang.
Nakhon Pathom can easily reached be reached by both bus and train.
Tourist
Train to Kanchanaburi
On weekends and holidays, the State Railways of Thailand operates
tourist train from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi. The train first stops
in Nakhon Pathom for one hour so people can view the massive chedi.
It then proceeds to the bridge popularized in the movie Bridge Over
the River Kwai. Although the original version was made of wood,
it was quickly replaced by an ordinary looking steel structure.
After an hour at the bridge, passengers are taken by minibus to
Prasat Meuang Singh Historical Park, a fascinating site containing
the remnants of a 13th century Khmer outpost of the Angkor empire.
Other highlights include lunch alongside the river, a visit to a
bat cave and a stop at one of the areas war cemeteries. The trip
only costs 250 baht for adults and half that for children. More
information can be obtained from the SRT website at www.srt.motc.go.th
Visiting
a Floating Market
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At one time it was relatively easy to visit picturesque floating
markets where fruits and vegetables were sold from small boats by
colorfully clad women. The urbanization of Bangkok, however, and
the arrival of the automobile have eliminated authentic markets
within the city itself. The real thing, however, still exists on
klongs (canals) outside of the city. The closest market is a small
affair on Klong Bang Khu Wiang in Thonburi. Boats to this market
leave from Tha (pier) Chang near Wat Pra Kaeo every morning between
06:15 and 08:00. The market, however, is pretty much over by 07:00
so it is probably best to charter a longtail boat in order to get
an earlier start. Klong Damnoen Saduak in Ratchaburi Province, about
100 kilometers outside of Bangkok, is another popular floating market
option. The most common way to visit one of the three markets on
or near Klong Damnoen Saduak is to go on a package tour. It is also
possible to rent a boat for about 350 baht an hour to tour the area,
but this can be expensive as it takes a considerable time to reach
the market. Although the floating market at Wat Sai is popular with
some tour companies, most people agree it isn't worth the effort
as tourists far outnumber the vendors in the market.
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